The weather is warm and humid and tropical vegetation dominates the landscape. Waterfalls, trees with huge leaves and a sky filled with those white fluffy clouds we used to paint when we were children. We are in Chanchamayo. The approach to Chanchamayo valley from Tarma in the Andes involves a gentle descent along one of the most spectacular stretches of road in Peru. After a series of tunnels and steep precipices you enter the so-called high Amazon jungle. There is a turn-off from the route to the village of Huasa Huasi, almost hanging from the mountains as if refusing to be part of the Amazon. This small place is famous for the extraordinary quality of its potatoes. Farmers from all over the country go there each year to buy seeds.
Your arrival in Chanchamayo is unmistakable. The valley widens considerably and the steep mountains give way to gentle hills covered by exuberant jungle vegetation. The large citrus plantations attract the attention (oranges and mandarins) bringing order to the speckled green of the hills and supplying much of the fruit eaten in the cities of Peru’s interior.
Located on the banks of the river Chanchamayo, it was originally established to repel the advances of the indigenous rebel Juan Santos Atahualpa, who fought against the missionaries in the 18th Century. San Ramon, the first of the twin towns of the valley has many restaurants and several hotels perfect for spending an agreeable weekend. It also possesses an airfield from which air taxis depart for the jungle towns of Iscozasin and Puerto Bermudez. There is also an unsurfaced road running east along the valley of the river Tulumayo to the farming settlements of Vitoc and Monobamba.
From San Ramon a 10 mile stretch takes visitors through orchards and coffee plantations to the neighboring town of La Merced (2,600 ft.a.s.l.), entered over the imposing La Herreria bridge over the river Chanchamayo.
Lively and agreeable this tropical town has everything the visitor needs to have a good time. La Merced is also an important crossroads. From here roads lead to several places in the east-central region: Satipo, Villa Rica, Oxapampa and Pozuzo.
Hospitable and tropical, the towns of San Ramon and La Merced are frequently visited by the inhabitants of the capital seeking rest and contact with nature. The climate is typical of the jungle, hot and humid, with a marked rainy season (from December to March, although heavy showers are not unknown at other times of the year.
Both are centers for trade in tropical products such as coffee, cacao, rice and timber from various parts of the interior. They are famous for their (oranges, mandarins, avocados, granadillas, and pineapples - the latter from the area around Kimiri) as well as ornamental plants (orchids). This is also the native land of Arthur Brell, who discovered the medicinal properties of the now celebrated cat’s claw (Uncaria tomentosa).
Lodgings in the valley are beautiful, but scarce and are full during national holidays (Easter week and the Independence Day break). One recommendation: rain is frequently one of the attractions of the journey. Avoid congestion and discover the magic of this beautiful area at any time of the year.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
El Tirol waterfall Less than two miles from San Ramon on an unsurfaced road which passes the airfield (Puente Paloma). Access is by a beautiful track which winds alongside the Teutonia creek to the waterfall (about 20 minutes walk). Cerro La Cruz A natural lookout on high ground in La Merced. There is an unsurfaced road leading to the large cross at the top. A fine view of the whole valley can be had from here.
Kimiri A fruit producing area (especially pineapple and granadilla) less than two miles from La Merced on the road to Oxapampa. Ideal for seeing the farms and buying fresh fruit at excellent prices.
River Colorado 6 miles from La Merced on the road to Oxapampa. A creek with exuberant vegetation leading to some old sugar estates. Ideal for off-road lovers.
Pampa Hermosa This spectacular nature reserve is 15 miles (2 hours) from San Ramon. A magnificent wood containing ancient cedars and walnut trees amid exuberant vegetation. Perfect for observers of orchids and bird watchers. This is also an ideal place to see the Andean cock-of-the-rock. It is accessible by four-wheel-drive vehicles.