The Main Square is huge and the architecture Spanish (Cajamarca is one of those cities where the colonial influence is strongest). The cathedral with its two truncated towers has its facade surrounded by volcanic rock and is in the lavish early 18th Century Churrigueresque baroque style. They say that in colonial times the cathedral was known as "the white man's church", as opposed to San Francisco, opposite, which was "the Indian's church". Certainly anyone visiting the city will notice that the people are different to the other Andean peoples. They are tall, clear skinned and some have green eyes. And their accent is different too, rather sing-song.



Atahualpa's historic ran som room

Whilst in the Main Square, take a look at the octagonal fountain and the stone porticos adorning the otherwise rather modest houses, not to mention the typical balconies in the adjacent streets. The architectural complex formed by Belen church and its adjoining school is a marvel of columns and multi colored carvings, while the district of San Sebastian has an imposing chapel where the faithful are always to be found in quiet contemplation. Another thing no visitor should neglect to do is to take one of the four paths up to the summit of Santa Apolonia where there is a huge cross, for an unbeatable panorama of the city.

There has to be time also for the house where Inca Atahualpa was put to death, the Casa del Rescate or ransom house. Remember the room filled with treasure and other details from 16th Century history?

The city appears to be growing fast. Unfortunately new building is tending to destroy its original harmony. Concrete and steel are replacing what was once known as the "adobe city". The large mining complex in the highlands of the department, which is exploiting the Yanacocha fields considered to be the richest in Peru, contributes to this. Cajamarca is also renowned for its medicinal springs.



The Inca baths, a mile or two from the center of the city are popular with tourists and locals alike. The enigmatic monument known as the Windows of Otuzco are cavities excavated in a rock face, of different depths and some with carvings in high relief. Academics consider them to be funeral caves. Whatever they were, they are a spectacular relic of the Cajamarca culture.

The finest thing about traveling through the fields of Cajamarca is the scenery: Tres Molinos, a hacienda where they make the best cheese in Peru. There is every type and flavor and visitors always buy something: butter, manjarblanco that soft sweet Peruvian fudge and other delicacies, after a generous tasting session, of course at Los Alpes farm.


 
  Author: Elsa Arana Freire
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